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Are We Loving Our Dogs to Death? — Groomer to Groomer

Edenzone Boutique offers a variety of pet care supplies and supplements.

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In my 32 years of practice, there was one trending concern among my clients that was frequently communicated. This concern, […] The post Obesity: Are We Loving Our Dogs to Death? appeared first on Groomer to Groomer – Pet Grooming News, Stories, and Videos…..read more below!

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One trending concern among my clients that was frequently communicated. This concern, expressed in many ways, almost always translated to this bold statement: “My dog is getting fat and I can’t understand why, because he is a picky eater.” Now, to most people, this problem of obesity correlates directly to overfeeding; however, there are several other causes that factor in.
Can we, as humans, all rely on the same diet to maintain our healthiest body weight, regardless of lifestyle, activity level, age, etc.? The answer is no. So why would we think otherwise with our dogs? 












Many clients would state that they feed their dogs two cups of food a day, not understanding the reason for weight gain. Rather than make a blanket statement that two cups is right for your dog, I would prompt a conversation asking about the lifestyle, age and activity level of the dog. Also, what type of food are you providing for your dog? There are various factors that come into play when determining the cause of the weight gain in our canine companions.

To feed a dog correctly, one should calculate the kilocalories that your individual dog should eat (including snacks) and then adjust it accordingly for activity. My benchmark statement is, “you should take what the directions state on the bag and drop it by 10%, then adjust in accordance to how the dog does”. Many of the recommendations on the bag are excessive. Dog food manufacturers have done an acceptable approximation of food needed for the weight of the dog; however, they are also in the business to sell dog food, therefore, in my opinion, many of them continue on the lofty end of the scale on their suggestions. 
Many dog owners choose to free-feed their dogs and they will successfully thrive on the method; however, most of us are not that lucky. Some dogs naturally regulate their body weight and food intake, but many do not know when to stop eating. A substantial issue is human interference. A statement that I received from a client of a grossly obese dog was that his dog was such a picky eater that he had to add canned food to his diet to encourage him to eat (hmm?). Top dressing (adding canned food or goodies) is a common tool many owners do to “love” their dog into obesity. 
Another common error is providing several different dog foods so the dog doesn’t get “bored”. Boredom is more of a human concern (and sometimes a cat one) more so than a dog issue. If consistency is maintained, then we will see a reduced issue with obesity, because dogs would eat out of need, not out of want. The further you vary their diet, the more they will crave variation—ultimately leading to progressive weight gain. Variation can also be detrimental if you have a dog with food allergies, because the more proteins the dog is exposed to, the greater the chance of an allergy development.
Several clients believe that, in order to benefit from the lack of nutrition in certain foods, it is necessary to supplement with alternate foods. This common error by assumption can be avoided by feeding your dog a high quality food from the start. In the modern era, most of our diets are nutritionally sound—at least on paper. The substantial issue is the bioavailability. In the past, many of the diets were animal tested (as listed on the AAFCO statement); however, because of the increased costs of animal testing, a majority have fallen back into the formulated category (as listed on AAFCO statement). This means that the diet meets the qualifications (nutritionally) based on a computer model, but crucially no guarantee that it does in reality (bioavailable). Alternating diet to solve this issue is most definitely not the answer because there is no way of truly balancing the diet in correlation to the deficiency—unless you can pinpoint the exact insufficiency.
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Another area many consumers are not aware of is how things are listed on the AAFCO (American Feed Control Officials) statement, which has led to confusion. The AAFCO statement is on every bag of food and is important to be aware of and educated on. The three main categories from the AAFCO statement (in addition to animal tested and formulated) are the life stages in which the food is designed for. The two categories of the past were adults (not senior), puppies and pregnant bitches. Recently, another stage has been added which is for ALL LIFE STAGES. In order to get this classification with AAFCO, these diets must meet the most stringent criteria, which is the nutritional benefits needed for puppies and pregnant bitches (why not just say that?). So unbeknownst to many consumers, they are feeding their older dog food that is geared towards puppies, thus adding to the obesity issues.


The most consistent issue I found in my years of practice was not the food, but the habitual supplementation of treats within the diet. For years, one influential manufacturer convinced us that by providing their treats to our dogs, we could keep their teeth squeaky clean. Great marketing, but no scientific evidence to back up the claim. Unfortunately, the consumers fell into this propaganda trap and the treats were labeled as beneficial. This of course led to the assumption that, if one treat was beneficial, then additional treats would be even more effective. This translated to every member of the family giving Fido an unnecessary number of treats and now, unknowingly, the dog was provided with significantly more than its recommended daily calorie requirement. 
Helping our canine companions maintain a healthy weight is very important for their longevity. Many small dogs die from the secondary effects of obesity, which almost always manifest into heart and lung issues. Numerous, if not a majority of, large dogs are euthanized due to arthritis causing back and hip issues, which are exacerbated by obesity. We need to love our dogs to the absolute fullest, but with praise and quality time, not with food. ✂️
Dr. Cliff Faver graduated with a BS in Biology/BA in Chemistry before getting a Veterinary degree in 1987. He is the past owner of Animal Health Services in Cave Creek, Arizona and now the US distributor for Iv San Bernard products, teaches the ISB Pet Aesthetician Certification program, and speaks internationally on hair and skin. His passion is to merge groomers and veterinarians to aid in helping and healing pets. He is also a member of AVMA, AAHA, AZVMA, Board member with Burbank Kennel Club, and has served on Novartis Lead Committee, Hill’s International Global Veterinary Board, and a Veterinary Management Group.

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Angel Trumpet bushes (white) 3ft. $20.00

We have Angel Trumpet bushes (Brugmansia) for sale at Edenzone Boutique. Visit our website at http://www.edenzone.net . 3 ft. Tall angel’s trumpet bushes available for sale.

Angel’s Trumpet Bush 3ft

Angel’s Trumpet Bush for sale. All colors Angel’s Trumpet Bush 20.00 plus 19.95 shipping total (39.95)

$39.95

The Angel’s trumpet is a beautiful, ornamental bush! Our bushes or 3 to 4 ft tall. They are shipped USPS Ground..

We have pink Angel’s Trumpet for sale as well!!!

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All about Lionhead rabbits

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Characteristics, Housing, Diet, and Other Information

Grey and White Lionhead Rabbit on white background
 Jodi Jacobson / Getty Images

Lionhead Rabbits are popular small pets.

With the right handling, they can be friendly and playful. Owning a Lionhead isn’t a decision that should be made in haste. They can be timid, need a well-balanced diet and plenty of appropriate space and enrichment.

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Lionhead Rabbit Behavior and Temperament

Lionhead Rabbits are popular pets, but they may not be the best choice for first-time owners with children.

They’re generally smart, good-natured and playful. However, they’re also one of the more timid domestic rabbit breeds. They can become easily frightened, and this can result in aggressive behavior.

They need a quiet, stress-free environment and should be handled with care. Gradually build up the contact you have with your Lionhead. Be patient and let them approach you on their terms, and make sure you have a tasty reward available, so they start to associate you with good things. Don’t rush into picking them up, and when you do, don’t restrain them tightly with no way to escape.

Lionhead Rabbits are intelligent little creatures. They need lots of enrichment and appropriate stimulation to prevent boredom from setting in. They need outlets for their natural digging and chewing behaviours. Not only is this much better for your rabbit’s general well-being, but it will save them selecting other, less appropriate items, around your house or garden.

Make sure they have a wide selection of rabbit-safe toys and chew items around their hutch and run. If they’re a house rabbit, you’ll need to work on redirecting to appropriate items and make sure you rabbit-proof the areas they have access to.

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Purchasing Your Lionhead Rabbit

We have Lionhead Rabbits for sale at Edenzone Pets. They’re 45.00

Housing the Lionhead Rabbit

Although the Lionhead is a small rabbit, they’re an active breed and need plenty of space to burn off energy.

Rabbits are sociable animals, and they do best when they have another bunny housemate. Your hutch should be big enough to accommodate at least two rabbits of a similar size. A hutch smaller than 6ft x 2ft won’t provide enough space.

Unfortunately, many rabbits are housed in hutches that are far too small for them, not appropriately sheltered from extreme weather, and that don’t give them the space to enjoy partaking in their natural behaviors.

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Providing a run is also recommended and, ideally, this should be around 8ft. If the hutch can be connected to the run, this will be a great set up.

You should make sure that your Lionhead is housed somewhere out of extreme temperatures. They’re particularly susceptible to overheating, and it’s generally recommended that they’re kept in an area where temperatures don’t exceed 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius).

In colder months, if your rabbit is housed outdoors, extra hay should be provided for warmth, and they should be well sheltered from rain, snow and wind.

Your Lionhead Rabbits hutch and run area should be cleaned out at least once a week, and you should also perform regular deep cleans on bowls, toys and other accessories too. A dirty hutch can quickly become smelly, and the build-up of urine and feces can lead to health problems and bacteria growth.

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Food and Water

Unfortunately, a lot of people don’t understand the nutritional requirements of a rabbit, and this can lead to digestive problems and, particularly, issues with their teeth.

Because rabbits teeth constantly grow, they need a diet that will naturally help their teeth to file down to prevent them from becoming overgrown. All rabbits should be given unlimited access to high-quality and high-fibre fresh grass hay, along with water. Fresh, leafy greens, like Kale, are also beneficial.

Steer clear of sugary fruits, unless it’s an occasional treat, and don’t fall into the trap of letting your Lionhead eat too many commercially prepared pellets. These can be okay in moderation, but they aren’t particularly fibrous and finding high-quality hay mixtures that they like is much more important.

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Common Health Problems

Along with dental problems caused by overgrown teeth, Lionhead Rabbits can be prone to a couple of other health issues. Some of the most common are outlined below:

Respiratory Issues: These are particularly common in Lionheads that have flat faces. Brachycephalic features in Lionheads are becoming more popular as some people think it adds to their cute factor. Not all Lionheads have flat-faces, but if they do this can increase the chances of your rabbit having breathing difficulties, dental problems and digestive issues. They’re more likely to overheat more easily too.

Eye Problems: Because a Lionhead can have a flatter face than your average rabbit breed, they can be more prone to problems with their tear ducts. This can lead to eye infections and vision difficulties. You should bath their eyes with warm water regularly to keep them clean. If you see a persistent problem with eye boogers, tearing, or inflammation, you should seek veterinary advice.

Lionheads come in a wide variety of color combinations, and the double-maned coats will require more grooming that the less profuse single-mane variety. A good breeder will be able to tell you which coat type a Lionhead will have from birth.

Unfortunately, a lot of people underestimate the needs of rabbits, and lots end up in rescue. Reach out to your local rescue organization to find out if you can offer a Lionhead rabbit, or another similar breed, an adoptive home.

The House Rabbit Society has a comprehensive list of rabbit rescues across the country.

Litter Training

Because Lionhead Rabbits are very smart, they usually respond to litter training more quickly than your average bunny. Providing a designated spot for your rabbit to toilet in makes it easier to clean out their hutch, and can be useful when house rabbits have free access to areas in the home too.

Using a clear marker like a Clicker, followed by a tasty reward, can be an effective way to let your Lionhead know that they have done the right thing when they go potty in the litter tray. The training principles are exactly the same as they would be for a cat or dog.

Spaying or neutering your rabbit when they’re mature enough can also help to minimize any spraying in less appropriate areas. It’s also important if you have two rabbits of different sexes being housed together.

Best Grooming Practices

Lionheads have a greater amount of hair than your average rabbit, and this means that you need to be prepared to pay more attention to their grooming regime.

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Their coat will need to be brushed out at least a few times a week to prevent uncomfortable knots or matting from developing.

Double-mane Lionhead Rabbits have a thicker mane and also thicker hair around their skirt (the hindquarters, hips, and tail). If their mane is a heavy double one, you should really brush them every day, especially during their annual molt.

A single-mane means the rabbit just has thicker hair around their head, ears and chest.

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If you don’t lift the dead hairs out through brushing, this can lead to your bunny ingesting a lot of their fur when they’re grooming themself, and it can cause what is known as ‘wool-block’ which can make them seriously ill.

Because of their timid nature, you should build up the grooming experience gradually to minimize stress and allow them to form positive associations with the process. Keep the sessions short, comfortable and paired with yummy treats.

Taking the time to do your research, understanding if a Lionhead rabbit is right for your household, and how much space and time they need is important to help you make the right decision.

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Reptile supplies are here!

At Edenzone pets..reptile supplies are here! We have a great selection of tried and true reptile supplies. We recommend these for your pet reptile to ensure a long happy life.

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Look this cute little harness for pet reptiles. Fits multiple sizes and is adjustable to accommodate growth!! Just 14.99 here at Edenzone Pets and Supplies.

14.99
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Zoo Med Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food

9.99
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Flukers Reptile Super Scrub cage cleaner 19.99


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Vetericyn Plus Antimicrobial Wound and Skin care 19.

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Bird activity center and perch

By PennPlax

Edenzone Boutique

We sell both sizes of the Penn Plax bird activity center at Edenzone pets. The playstation provides both exercise and entertainment for medium-size birds. This bird gym is easy to assemble. Made with 100% cotton ropes, colorful wooden perches, ladders, swings, copper bells and acrylic toys. Place it on top of the cage to give your pet bird a fun change of scenery and encourage activity

Size small 24.99plus shipping
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Key Benefits

  • Provides both exercise and entertainment for birds.
  • This tiny bird gym is easy to assemble and encourages activity.
  • Place it on top of the cage to give your pet bird a fun change of scenery.
  • This playpen sports 100% cotton ropes, colorful wooden perches, ladders, swings, copper bells and acrylic toys.
  • Help relieve boredom and keep your bird happy.
  • (x-large)
  • 19 x 15 x 12 inches
size large -34.99

everything is included except the pet birds!

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Edenzone Boutique

Bird Activity Center (large)

3/4 inch perch width,sturdy ladder and bell for entertainment. 9.99 shipping added to price

$44.98

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What about..Litter training your rabbit!

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Litter Training Your Rabbit

People have the idea that rabbit will litter all over the house. But to the contrary, rabbits make wonderful house pets. They’re great companions, and can be litter box trained.

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     Keep in mind….It’s a good idea to get your rabbit spayed/neutered in order to ease territorial feelings. If you choose not to spay/neuter your rabbit. There is no way to stop the urge to mark their territory.

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Below is a list of steps for litter training your new rabbit.

Rabbit in litter box
we’re located in Brundidge Alabama, we ship!

1. Use at least 3 topless cat litter boxes. You can also use a a shallow storage tub.

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For litter, use recycled paper litter or shreded newspapers can be used as well. This litter will neutralize any unpleasant urine odors. Do not use clay-based or clumping litter because of the potential harm to your rabbits’ respiratory system. Also avoid wood shavings of any kind.

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Put a thin layer of litter at the bottom of the box. It should be just enough to absorb wetness. Use just a little because you will need to dump the litter everyday and too much is a waste of litter.

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Rabbits like to eat hay and potty at the same time. So to promote good litter box habits, place hay either directly in the box over the litter or place it in a hay box next to the litter box. If you use a hay box, position it so the rabbit must hop into the litter box in order to reach the hay.

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It’s easiest to develop good litter box habits in rabbits by limiting their spice. Consider Using a puppy pen to confine your rabbit to one area, even if you intend to give him/her free reign of your home eventually. This allows your bunny to get acclimated to the area in the beginning. Once your bunny consistently uses the litter box, you can gradually expand the area. If your rabbit starts “forgetting” to use the litter box, then limit the space again until good habits resume.

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Here are a few other tips for those stubborn, “outside-the-box” bunnies:

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  • If accidents occur, mop up urine with a paper towel and pick up stray poop and place both in the litter box. This helps get the message across that the litter box is the place that they should do their business. Keep in mind that rabbits are generally not 100% perfect with their litter box. Sometimes they leave a few droppings next to the box, or they urinate over the edge of their box. This is normal, so placing a plastic mat under their litter box or putting the litter box on a tile floor makes it easier to clean up these little mistakes.
  • Be patient and persistent. Litter training takes time, especially if your rabbit has learned bad habits. It takes a while to retrain them. If you can see they’re about to go outside their litter box (they may lift their tail or sometimes they sort of shimmy down in a seated position right before they go), try to pick them up and put them in the litter box or corral them in. This is often times easier said than done of course.
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  • If your bunny is insistent on going in one corner of the room, sometimes it’s easier to give in to their stubbornness, and place a litter box in that corner. Sometimes when rabbits consistently choose another place to go, they are trying to tell you that that’s where they want to go.
  • If your rabbit is pooping/spraying pee everywhere, this is probably due to your rabbit marking his territory. It’s a good idea to get your rabbit spayed/neutered in order to ease territorial feelings.
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  • Sometimes rabbits deliberately pee on your couch or bed because they’re showing you who’s Top Bunny in the house.  You should correct their misconception immediately. 

Litter training your pet rabbit takes patience and persistence. But in the end, you’ll have a wonderful companion to share your home with.

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  • Litter box
    A few shallow storage containers works well.
    Or you may opt for a few medium-sized cat litter boxes.
  • Rabbit-safe litter
    Opt for a recycled newspaper pellet litter such as Yesterday’s News (unscented). 
  • Hay
    Purchase hay by the bale from a local farmer or at your local Walmart
  • Hay feeder
    Placing a hay feeder next to the litter box so the rabbit has to hop into the box in order to eat is helpful in establishing good litter box habits. 
  • Puppy pen
    Puppy pens help limit your rabbit’s space so that he/she can get acclimated to the area and get used to going in the litter box.
  • Information in this article was taken from the following sources. We hope it’s useful!
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Cutest Pets — Marvelous Pets

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Cutest Pets

Cutest Pets — Marvelous Pets
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